Chantilly & Paris, France
Today was Horses! Day 8, Paris/London, Sunday, October 13, 2013
We tried once again to go to Chantilly and this time we made it! When we actually got to the town, we discovered that the bus to the chateau didn’t run on Sundays, but the walk was only 20 minutes. It was a nice day, so we hoofed it straight out of town through a lovely bridle path. Along the way we met Christine, a young woman from Sweden, who ended up joining us for the day.
The bridle path let us out right next to the Chantilly racetrack (Hippodrome). Literally. We walked next to the railing around a sweeping turn towards a castle. This turned out to be the stables. The museum in the stable block was very well done.
We also attended a small equestrian demonstration – in French. It essentially was a riding lesson showing the basic aides up through high school dressage.
After we finished with the horse museum (of course we did the barn first!) we headed for the chateau. This slowly appeared as we hiked across a vast lawn. It was like the others – incredibly beautiful. This was also a privately owned chateau. It’s very delicate in design, not nearly as massive as the others, with lots of spires and delicate ornamentation on the roof lines. The art collection was amazing as well, and is supposed to be second only to the Louvre in its art. One octagon tower was devoted completely to works by Raphael.
After that, it was back across the giant lawn with the racetrack grandstands in view towards the stable block – which actually is bigger than the chateau. We saw some of the museum horses heading out across the vast lawn heading for the bridle paths. Happy horses!
There we watched the Equine Spectacular show. Had we come on Thursday, we
would not have been able to see this, and it was well worth it! The show was built around a premise of a 19th century circus going through a dress rehearsal before going to Paris. The music, costumes, and acts were very much in the style of Cirque d’soliel. The riding was amazing, from classical dressage, trick riding, pony, humor, and liberty acts, among others. It was well worth the extra time and expense, and we were very lucky to have seen it.
Then, we headed back for the train station. Instead of cutting through the bridle paths, we went by road, and managed to get lost yet again. The town was lovely. I’d love to come back and spend a few days here. It’s supposed to be the center of racing and the thoroughbred industry in France.
We finally found the station by following a woman who was towing a suitcase. In Paris, we parted with Christine, and headed for home, where we actually ate a very nice sit-down dinner in a restaurant in the Rue Cler. A very nice day.
Tomorrow is our last full day in Paris. We shall see what that will hold in store.
I have to add a few things here. First, at Chantilly, the Prince of Conde’ built the stables as large as he did mainly because he was convinced that he would come back after death as a horse. The stables are monstrously huge. And there are small riding rings tucked into odd places. They are truly amazing.
Also, a word about the trains. On our mis-adventure trying to get to Chantilly the first time, we had taken a local train, where we got stuck in Madeleine (the wide spot on the tracks). Going home, we had taken a high speed train. When we handed our carnet tickets to the conductor, she just looked at them, then at us, and asked ‘American?’ We nodded and she laughed and wrote on the back of the ticket so we would have no problem. She explained that this particular train needed a real train ticket, and next time to purchase in the station.
So, needless to say, we had real train tickets on the Sunday train. As we were talking to Christine, we were discussing more about where we were from. I mentioned that I lived in the Skagit Valley. Suddenly, I heard a voice across the aisle exclaim loudly in English, “Skagit Valley?!? We’re from Port Townsend!” Which was only about an hour from the Skagit Valley. Needless to say, two more people joined our conversation. As we talked about the fact that it was a very small world, the conductor came around. We handed our full sized train tickets, then watched in amusement as the couple from Port Townsend handed their tiny carnet tickets over, and heard a repeat of the explanation we had heard on Wednesday. All I can say is that those train conductors have the patience of saints!
Last Day in Paris, Day 9, Paris/London, Monday, October 14, 2013
Today was our last full day in Paris. Tomorrow morning we catch the Eurostar train to London. I’ve never ridden a bullet train. Should be interesting.
Today we visited Invalides. Since this was three blocks from us, it seemed a crime not to go. In addition, it houses Napoleon’s tomb. And since every place we’ve visited seemed to be someplace he lived, it only seemed right to see where he was buried. [Note the people in the lower left corner for perspective!]
While at Invalides we also went through the army museum, and as usual, only scratched the surface. We spent a lot of time looking at armor. There was a huge collection of armor from Europe as well as China and Japan. It was exquisite. The rifles, pistols and swords had the most beautiful inlay and chasing. I never realized how beautiful something so deadly could be.
We skipped the modern armory and headed to Champs-Elysees. We couldn’t come to Paris and not see the Arch de Triomphe. It was much bigger than I had expected and very impressive.
From there we headed to the Latin Quarter just below Norte Dame (and where we started on day 1) for a late lunch of crepes. This was a new one for me – I only through crepes were for desert. After an incredibly filling lunch of crepes with blue cheese, walnuts, and ham, I now know differently.
We then took our last metro ride home. Yet again we managed to get on a train that ended two stops early. We then got on the correct train and walked home under the Eiffel Tower for the last time.
In summary, some things we have learned in Paris:
1) When in any building in Paris, always remember to look up. The ceiling are always incredible – sometimes more so than the room!
2) Sharon and I are determined to be road kill. Make sure you always travel in
pairs so one can keep the other from getting run over.
3) There are stairs everywhere. And whenever there is an up escalator, it will be blocked off and out of service.
4) Anytime a train ends short of where we want to go, Sharon and I will be on it.
5) There are no square blocks of streets in Paris – they are all pie shaped. Therefore I can plot a route on a map, but will inevitable turn the wrong way when trying to follow it.
6) The tv system has a mind of its own and will work some days and others not, with no logic as to why. However, last night and today we have two equestrian channels and watched show jumping, harness racing, and ridden trotter races (that was a new one), so I guess I can’t complain.
7) Everybody in Paris has a dog. And that dog goes everywhere with them.
8) I swear, everybody in Paris smokes.
9) All people in Paris have a respect for personal space, which is really amazing
given how many people are in the city. However this respect does not exten to when they get behind the wheel of a car.
10) This suicidal driving may explain the lack of cats. That and the large amount of dogs.
11) Parisians are able to park a car in a space that is no bigger than a bread box.
12) Nothing, and I mean nothing, can hold a candle to true French Bread.
13). And finally, every Frenchman is good-looking, dresses well, and wears tight jeans.
Below: A sample of the inlaid marble flooring surrounding Napoleon’s Tomb.
Suzanne’s Travels 