So today we gained an hour when the clocks changed back. Woo hoo! We needed it. We also got to eat breakfast in the hotel for a change. The concierge looked surprised when we asked where the breakfast room was. But after two morning with either very early or very late starts, it was just how things worked out. And, we got a cab to the Borghese Gallery this morning instead of using public transportation.
Now it does help to read the guidebook before you go on vacation, not a few days into it. We usually use the Rick Steves guidebooks. They are down to earth, and generally full of the kind of plebeian facts we need. After yesterdays foray, and reading Rick Steves advice about the transport system, we are believers. Basically, Rome has just three metro lines. That don’t go anywhere we need them to go. There is an excellent bus system, but traffic is so bad, Rick Steves just advises that you consider it part of the Rome experience. He also states that he uses cabs more in Rome than anywhere else in the world. That was good enough for us! It also gave us extra time, as our reservations were not until 11am.
Yes, reservations. The Borghese Gallery is out in the middle of a 200 acre park, the Villa Borghese Gardens, and sells out quickly. The body of the collection is from Borghese family, who were avid patrons and collectors of art and sculpture. The main artists were Bernini, Caravaggio, and Picasso, as well as other major pieces. We had a guided tour booked for 11am, and would be out of the place by 1pm. Yes, they gave you an ‘out’ time as well. The tickets stated clearly that no backpacks, bags, umbrellas, etc must be checks. We went prepared.
Once more, we were given a colored sticker (this time indicating language), and sat and watched people for awhile since we were plenty early. It became great sport to see who was turned back and sent to the bag check when they tried to enter with backpacks and the like. There was also a young man who kept getting asked questions regarding the tours. Unfortunately, he wasn’t a tour guide, instead he was Owen from Boston, who just happened to look official. We got talking to him for awhile while we waited.
Unfortunately, our guide didn’t show up. He was either in a car accident, or stuck behind one. It was hard to tell given the language barrier. So we were all given audio guides and sent on our way. The museum was absolutely spectacular. Bernini’s David was there, as well as several others by him. Picasso’s Goat was on display as well. I’m not sure I understand Picasso, but ah well. In one room was an incredible three dimensional bas relief of a horse that had been found. No one knows who the sculptor was, but it is incredible on it’s own. Bernini ‘finished’ it, by adding a gladiator getting thrown to the ground. Apparently, this finishing of found pieces was very common at the time.
Sculptures were on the 2nd floor, and paintings were on the third. They only allowed each individual 30 minutes to tour the paintings. To get to the third floor, an unending spiral staircase was used, or the tiniest elevator in the center eye of the staircase that I’ve ever seen. And that’s saying something – we’ve seen some pretty small elevators in Europe. It reminded me of a birdcage. I walked the stairs.
As always, the ceilings were magnificent. The following pictures were all tromp d’oeil. They look three demensional, but they are all done on a flat surface. Absolutely incredible.
I can’t say enough about the Borghese Gallery. The experience was phenomenal. Below are pictures of some of the Bernini sculptures (Apollo catching a woman who is turning into a Laurel Bush, David, and Pauline – Princess of the Borghesy), a Caravaggio painting, and a sculpture over the doorway.
We exited to more wind. At some point while we were touring the gallery I’d heard what I took to be an isolated clap of thunder, but apparently, a huge limb on a tree had come down. It was massive! Our weather has been full of wind and gray clouds, but we’ve managed to dodge any rain. Temperatures have been mild, which is nice. We decided to walk through the park and find a metro stop. The park has a couple of equestrian venues. Sharon found out that it had been used for the equestrian portion of the Olympic Games when they were in Rome. The park also sports a couple of other museums, a zoo, and of course lots of mature plants and statues. We sat in the park for awhile, enjoying a nice break, and people watched.
We exited the gardens at the old Roman City Wall. This was massive, and I can’t believe it’s still standing now, but a lot of it is.
From there we headed to the Spanish Steps. I was delighted that we came in on the TOP of them. They anchor one corner of the Borghese Gardens. The view was amazing, and hike down the steps was no picnic. Uneven and worn, we went carefully, stopping often for pictures.
Having Rick Steves guidebook and map with us, we discovered that the Spanish Steps was the end of one of his self guided walking tours. We decided to follow it, only backwards, since we were at the end. Probably not a plan given our navigation skills, but we managed as it turns out. Best selling point for the guidebook, I’d say. And, bonus points, it was all downhill!
On our way towards the Trevi Fountain, we came across a pieces of an old aqueduct. It was fenced off, and I’ve have loved to get a picture, but the mesh was too tight. What an amazing piece of engineering, and still holding strong. Later, we also came across some stunning old pillars. I’ve attached the picture at the top of the blog.
The Trevi Fountain was our next stop, and it was jammed packed with people. I’m not sure what I was more amazed at – the fountain or the crowds! Sharon told me that I had to throw two coins over my right shoulder. One for luck, the second would guarantee that I’d come back to Rome one day. They had worked for her, as she is back again, so we fought our way down, and tossed our coins.
From there we went to the Pantheon. We took a shorter detour from the route laid out in the map, but we were getting tired. (I should say more tired by that point, we were already dragging). At least it wasn’t raining. With the giant hole in the ceiling, the roof isn’t weather proof, but since it was made with only stones carefully put into place and no nails, nobody is complaining. It is still a church, and is magnificent. The scale alone is thought defying.
Our final stop was at the Plaza Navona. This is Sharon’s favorite fountain, and I can see why. It’s beautiful, and by Bernini of course. The plaza was packed with people, and we found a clear spot and just sat and recharged for awhile. Finally we decided that we should try to get back home.
Of course we had no ideas how that was going to occur. No subway, and no cabs in sight. We read the guidebook (smart choice), and found that there was a bus nearby. We found the stop (without getting lost!), and settled into wait just as the skies opened up. Good thing we had our raincoats!
When a bus finally came, it was completely packed. We were just able to get on, and the only air we got was when the door opened. One german man decided he had to get on that bus, and doors barely closed behind him. Finally he got off, and Sharon says she swore she saw him trying to pull a companion out of the back door. I’ve ridden crowded buses, but nothing like this! Near the end of the ride, I began recognizing landmarks, and we ended up getting off just next to our McDonalds. Those Golden Arches are coming in handy as landmarks on this trip! A great steak dinner at a nearby restaurant, and we are back in our room.
It was an amazing day, and we saw a lot. If this is off season, I can’t imagine the summer. It may be damp, but at least it isn’t hot. Tomorrow we’re off to the Vatican again. We’re planning to take a cab this time. No more worries about going ‘that way’. Coming home, we may just go to St. Pietro Station and get our 1 euro train ticket. Cheaper than the bus, and certainly less crowded.
Suzanne’s Travels 