Day 12 – Salzburg to Vienna
Today was a travel day. We took the Rail-jet again (we really like that train) from Salzburg to Vienna (or Wein, in German), arriving about 11:30. We took the U-Bahn (Metro) to Praterstrabe and our hotel. They let us check in early, and we headed out to explore.
We wandered down to the old district, or Ringstrabe. Vienna is a huge city, much larger than anything we’ve been in on this trip. Whereas Salzburg was a UNESCO Historical Site, therefore unchanging, Vienna is a city that is in flux. It doesn’t seem to rest easily between its historical roots and its modern identity. The graffiti along the river is heavy and everywhere, and there doesn’t seem to be any move to control it.
Once on the edge of the Ringstrabe, we decided to get on a trolley that would take us around the edge so we could see where everything was. Once again, Leslie directed us to a trolley. Vienna is not nearly as tourist friendly, so her German came in handy, but it was still hard to tell. We went about a block around the Ring, then, to our chagrin, turned across a bridge and headed out of the historical area for parts unknown. We rode until the end of the line through the ‘real’ city. At the end, we found an amazing kebab place for lunch, then got on the same trolly line back into the historical district. After that experience, we walked!
The construction/renovation in the Ring section seems to be ongoing everywhere one looks. Even so, we found St. Stephens Church (which looks on the outside like something the Spanish architect Gaudi could have designed, but on the inside is completely baroque), the palace and the Spanish Riding School. The costumed men around all the major sights turned out to be concert ticket salesman, and they gave a surprisingly hard sell.
We walked back to the hotel via the main shopping street up from the palace, which includes Tiffany, Cartier, Rolex, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, and other familiar names. Most of the statues and domes of the building had nets protecting them from birds. It was odd to see.
We don’t have much time here in Vienna (only 3 nights), so it was nice to take an earlier train than we’d planned and get the afternoon here.
Day 13 – Vienna in the Sunshine (Finally!)
Last night it rained – hard. Today, it was sunny! It was lovely, although when we left this morning, we weren’t sure. It was kind of damp.
Our first stop was St. Stephens Church. This time we got the all-inclusive ticket and did the full tour. We toured the main portion of the church, which is absolutely amazing. Then we did the catacombs tour, then split up. I went to the Treasury (up a very narrow, cylindrical elevator that only came when called – complete with attendant). This included not only the usual jeweled items, but some really incredible art and two semicircular vestments that were heavily embroidered. The audio guide described in detail the embroidery, which of course, made my day. The tour also included some of the original stonework in this very old church, as well as an original mural, of which this was the only survivor. Then, Lesley and I went up to the North Bell Tower (it had a lift). Again, small and cylindrical, which let out into a metal, mesh, catwalk attached to the outside of the tower. I didn’t look down. The ground was too far away. The views were incredible!
Here are some of the many pictures I took of the church:
The next stop was the Spanish Riding School. We had reservations for the 2pm tour. Tours had been sold out for quite some time. Good thing Sharon thought ahead! Of course this tour was a real high point for me. We saw the horses, the winter riding school, the tack room (picture below), and the 19 horse equi-ciser. The guide said that the horses had fun in the equi-ciser- often when they turned it off, they would find the horses had moved stalls, and sometimes joined their friends so there would be 2 or 3 in a single stall. It was fun to see, and amazing to see that the stables were in the middle of this busy, inner-city district.
After that concluded, we went to the butterfly garden. This was a nice interlude, but pretty warm. Apparently, I am the butterfly whisperer, much like the bird whisperer. One blue one was determined to land on my jacket. He was never there long enough to get a picture!
Unfortunately, the Hofburg place and the Imperial Jewels exhibit were closed today, but instead, we were able to sit in at the 5pm Divine Service at St. Peters. It was really something, and a real blessing that we were actually able to attend.
I’ve attached picture of the front of the Hofburg Palace, the tack room of the Spanish Riding School, and a gateway out of the palace complex among others.
All in all, it was a day packed with a ton of things, and we’ve been going at this pace for 13 straight days now. We have a day trip down the the Danube river to the Melk Abbey tomorrow. The day after, we are off to our final stop – Munich. Six more days to go, then I can sleep!
Miscellanous pictures of Vienna:
Day 14 – Melk Abbey
Today we took a tour. A 9 hour tour. Actually, the tour was an hour – getting to and from took more time.
It was sunny when we left, but like Seattle, it could turn to rain in a blink, rain for a while, then be sunny once more. We went by bus to Sift, where we picked up a boat and headed up the Danube River. Again, a fast moving, strong current, running at about six knots (per the guidebook, and I can believe it!). The cruise along the river (in the pouring rain) took about an hour and a half. At one point we passed a runined tower, high on the hill. We were told that the tower is where Richard III of England was held. The guide made a comment that nobody went up there any more. It was full of snakes.
We arrived at the abbey at about 2pm and had lunch in the abbey restaurant (so-so food) then began a guided tour. The Melk Abbey is stunning. Every part had something to see. They have a secondary school in one section, and it is a practicing Benedictine Abbey as well. They had a wonderful museum, and the tour was very informative. I’ve included some pictures of the abbey itself and its interior below. We had only about half an hour to look around, then at 4:30, we were off back to Vienna. We arrived back at six.
I would go to the abbey again, but I think I’d like to not go with a tour. It was too rushed, and the abbey and its grounds were too spectacular not to linger and poke around in order to savor the place.
There are so many things here that we didn’t get to see that I would have loved to. But at the same time, I have very mixed feelings about Vienna. I loved the Spanish Riding School (big surprise), and the history is marvelous. Yet, unlike Paris, which has the same type of storied history, and which has learned a balance between celebrating the past and moving forward with the future, Vienna really doesn’t seem to have figured it out. As we drove through the city on the bus this afternoon, graffiti was rampant, and several of the lovely old buildings were defaced. The modern overlayed the past, and it didn’t sit easily. As many things as I wanted to see, I don’t know that I would come back here.
We will see what Munich has to bring tomorrow.
Lots of pictures of the Melk Abbey, and a couple from the river trip. Unfortunately we weren’t allowed to take pictures in the Library, which is a pity, because that place was incredible!
