May 2016
Sightseeing
One of the Landesa India staff took me sightseeing after work. Pranati had lived in India all of her life, and was well travelled and very well educated. Since the time this trip took place, she has been working with other International Development agencies, always working towards bettering the lives of Indians, and Indian women in particular. She is an amazing woman, and I was lucky to spend some time with her. It remains a real high point in my trip. Thanks again, Pranati!
Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves (Kattake Caves)
These caves, in the hills above Bhubaneswar, are one of the most important cultural sights in India. The caves date back to the 1st century BCE, and are of religious significance. They are either natural or hand hewn caves that had served as homes for the Jain monks. The caves are vast and pepper the entire hillside. They are amazing in their carvings and in their sophistication. It’s really worth reading about them on line. They are amazing!
The evening Pranati and I went, there were lots of people around. As I mentioned, this is a place of historical significance, and important to the Indian people. You are allowed to go in, and climb around the hills and the caves. The feeling is that of a vast and open area, high in the hills. I was told that they faced the sunrise, and hermits had lived in them for years over the centuries. Udayagiri actually means ‘sunrise hill’.
The caves were multi layered throughout the hill, and around each rock you’d find another, with it’s channels carved for water and sewage, and intricate designs carved throughout. From the Udayagiri hill, you could look across to the other, and we could see monkeys playing on the rocks and trees.
The views were spectacular, and you could sense the age.
It was an interesting experience on another level as well. I was the only western caucasian face in the whole area that evening. I am not used to being a minority! At one point we were waiting to cross the street and I looked down next to me to find a little girl, probably about 5-6 looking up and studying me very seriously. I smiled at her and she instantly beamed a huge smile back at me. I so enjoyed the whole experience that evening!
This is the information on the site that was posted. It’s worth a read!
More pictures of the caves below, and I’ve included some more at the end of this entry.
Mukteshwar Temple and Parsurameswara Temple
On another occasion we visited a couple of the many amazing temple complexes in the area. The Bhubaneswar area is known for its many examples and variety. The two we visited were part of a complex of three. The Kedara Gouri Temple was not open to outsiders at the time I visited. It was built of white stone, and had colorful accents that I could see over the wall.
The Mukteshwara Temple was stunning. It is a 10th century Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva. The carving is magnificent, you can walk all around them, and the gardens were lovely.
The Parsurameswara Temple is across a grassy park, and is also a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva. This one is even older – dated around the 7th and 8th centuries. It is considered one of the oldest existing temples in Odisha. We couldn’t go into this one, but we could get close. The carving and construction are just amazing. I’m going to let the pictures speak for themselves.
Textiles in Odisha
Women in India really know how to dress. Kurtas are standard and can be worn with churidars (basically a type of legging) or jeans. A kurta is a long, loose shirt, usually collarless. These are made of wonderful cottons, usually colorful and trimmed. Saries are also common. Saris are dresses made of one long length of 5-7 yards of fabric. Usually they are bright, embroidered, and in silk or cotton. The workmanship in the fabrics are amazing. They are often border prints and either woven or block printed. This fabric is draped first as a skirt, then up and around the chest, with the remaining fabric lengths draped of the arm. They look wonderful on any body type, and provide free movement. They are beautiful, elegant, and can be utilitarian as well. These two types of dress will fit any body type, and will flatter any shape.
Pranati took me several places to shop, and one was a shop for fabric. It was run by the state to provide an outlet for the women of the villages outside of the city to sell their goods. The fabrics were silks and cottons. Again, sometime block printed and sometimes woven. There were Saris – again 5-7 yards of fabric – woven in fabulous patterns and border prints in gold and jewel tones, but also any color you can think of! There was also fine cottons that had been block printed in stunning colors. Long scarves were also available. I bought a lot, lol. Long scarves that are almost shawls, in stunning embroidered patterns, and lengths of fabrics to make into kurtas (which I still haven’t done yet – someday). I did not buy a sari. It was tempting, believe me! The prices were incredibly reasonable, and it was wonderful to buy handcrafts made in the state. I was told by one of the Landesa staff that one person they took to the store bought several saris to use as curtains. They would be stunning!
Another store we went to was handcrafts from the tribes in the hills. I bought an incredible framed clock. It was maroon and gold, and the mat around it was hand painted in the tribal style. I took it to show my parents when I got home, and they commented that it would look incredible over the mantle. They were right, it did. And that is where it has lived since, lol.
Summary
India is amazing. The country is in flux, still trying to find itself following Colonial rule. But they are working at it. The history and culture are so unique, and so ancient, and you can see signs of it all over. But it is also hard to see the poverty that is everywhere. Yet as a country they are making strides, and working on it. And the people are amazing. Warm, open and generous. And as always, it is the people who are the most important.
More pictures of the caves:
